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ccrarabians wrote:sublimequine wrote:I recently adopted the "walk them down" method with my mare, who occasionally decides she doesn't want to be caught. You simply walk after them, wherever they go. Don't get excited, don't run, don't herd. Just follow them until they stop and let you catch them. It takes a ton of patience and you have to be thinking you have alllll day. It takes the "game" out of it.
I have used this method, especially during nine years of working at a place with orders to "go catch the grey mare" (out of, ya know, 30 other grey mares in the 40 acre pasture). I also noticed (to my benefit) that the herd learns relatively quickly who you are after, and after a short time they are more than happy to sacrifice that one to the predator (you) when they realize you have no interest in the rest of them. Sure, the "victim" can get them all stirred up & running the first 2 or 3 times, but after that the herd is bored & pays little to NO attention to the one you're trying to catch. A horse that is halter trained & catch trained AT ALL gives up soon after realizing the herd has sacrificed them (and there's no "fun" involved). A dominant horse can sometimes (at this point) be convinced to come to you by you acting like the new alpha - placing yourself between them and the herd - but that isn't a method I would recommend to someone who hasn't spent a lot of time watching herd dynamics & body language.
A horse that is traumatized, was beaten, has rarely been caught or handled - once you have them convinced the herd gave them up, you have some time ahead of you following them at a walk. I have found that helps with some of these to employ releases - by stopping your progress towards them (pressure) when they stop. After a time you "train" them to stop and stand still. Super wild ones are going to take a couple of HOURS doing this though. BUT, once you've done it, every time after that is shorter and shorter as they've learned that you don't give up.
sublimequine wrote:I recently adopted the "walk them down" method with my mare, who occasionally decides she doesn't want to be caught. You simply walk after them, wherever they go. Don't get excited, don't run, don't herd. Just follow them until they stop and let you catch them. It takes a ton of patience and you have to be thinking you have alllll day. It takes the "game" out of it.
V E R S A T I L I T Y !
Jun 20 12 4:00 PM
Apr 9 13 6:45 AM
To me it's no different to those who have riding horses and come along
because they can't get their horse to leg yield. Then when you talk to
them and watch their ridden work you often come to learn that every
time they ride out on the road and hear a car they turn to look over
their offside shoulder. Do that in your chair now with your hands held
out as if they had reins and your feet say a hip's breadth apart.
What happens when you turn your head over your shoulder is that you take
with your offside rein, give with your inside and put your weight onto
your inside hip bone and you put your inside leg on. Horse should
track over to the offside with all those commands.
However that isn't what the rider (or horse) wants because that means
the horse might step into the path of the car. So if the horse drifts,
the rider then gives a yank on the inside rein or places a whip on the
horses offside to keep it in. Over time the horse learns that all
those signals to leg yield are to be totally ignored because the owner
actually wants you to go straight. The other VERY common one
is rider's who move away from the mounting block and try to walk the
horse in a straight line whilst pratting about tightening the girth or
adjusting stirrups. IF you try to do that and the horse doesn't move
off the straight and narrow, then it's only because you've taught him
that all those shifts of weight and leg and hand position is going to be
counter acted. Trust me, I know! I've earned quite a lot of money over the years UNtraining horses.
Because I also teach carriage driving I have a VERY useful bit of kit
called a reining machine. It's even more critical for a driver to get
it right because with that great huge length of rein comes the physics
of the slightest motion being more exagerated on the mouth. For
riders like Cindy, I get them to sit in front of a reining machine (with
riding length reins) and close their eyes and merely ask them to pick
up the reins.... I've never actually ever had a rider yet that has equal
contact in both hands. I get them to open their eyes and see the
effect of the difference. Then I ask them to concentrate on keeping
their hands absolutely steady and just shift their weight so it's on one
buttock or merely incline their head and get the to see what happens to
the effect on the bit. This lack of awareness and understanding
that Cindy is displaying is the reason why novice riders never get on
well with those school master horses that do PRECISELY what you asked
for whether you meant it or not! That's the reason why I most often
end up sticking riders in front of the driving reining machine. And
Cindy I really must pick up your comment about being collected so
working more off rein cues. That displays an incredible lack of
understanding of what collection is. Collection comes from balance and
from behind. It's about engaged hindquarters, flexed abdominals,
arched spine, and elevated head and neck, and a flexed poll. As and
when the horse performs in collected the hindquarters are required to
bear an increasingly greater proportion of the load. Collection is all
about contained energy which is all coming from behind. When the horse
has engaged his hind legs and elevated his forehand, he will be lighter
in your hand and twice as responsive and less likely to need reins since
engagement of the hocks makes tasks all so much easier for him.
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